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Helpful tips for replacing your shims on your BT3000

Here is a video I put together to help with replacing the shims.

The best advice I can give is to take the riving knife off, take the rails off altogether, turn over the assembly onto a towel or cardboard box, flip the saw over on it’s top onto some cardboard, remove the side panels, remove the back panel, dust cover, and then you should have enough access to the screws and guide holder. I would stay away from using power tools for the rest of the assembly. The screw heads seem to be softer than I would expect so be careful not to strip them.

For good measure pick up a couple spare: don’t ask me why I know!

8-32 X ¾” Pan head Machine screw.

10-24 x 1” Pan head Machine screw.

To avoid much frustration when it comes time to get the shims to stay put as you are assembling it I suggest using painter’s tape on the top tabs of each flat shim and both top and bottom for the angled shims. The material I have made the shims out of is, in my opinion, more resilient so you should not see the problem happen again where the shim will eventually drop out.

See the video for placing the shims frustration free. Tighten down the screws slowly, be patient. Once the bearing is seated all the way in the bracket you can then place the smaller screws into the black bearing holder plate with little frustration.

I highly suggest that you use some form of dust collection to keep the build up from wedging the shims. MDF is particularly a problem because of the quantity of fine dust that is generated.

Also, whenever I change the blade or take it out for cleaning I take the time to inspect the area to ensure that everything is working fine and that no build up is threatening the shims.

I think that the original shims are particularly damaged at the end of travel of the lift mechanism. Be careful when approaching these limits.

It would be great if you find something that helped you greatly I would love to hear about it.

If you got here directly and don’t know where to get the shims: I sell the shims on the right here on my website, both a full set and just the angled ones.

This procedure will also work for the Crafstman 315.228110

7 thoughts on “Helpful tips for replacing your shims on your BT3000

  1. Really helpful tips for me. Love this post. Thanks.

  2. Thanks for the video. As previously posted, I tweaked my shims about a year ago. I’ve been able to limp along with a stubborn lift since then. I was dubious of the tape method, and wrong. worked like a charm. Thanks for the much needed refresher. Only one “corner” shim was bent and I had saved the shims from the last time 15 ish years ago. Flat shims were mint.

    Thanks again.

  3. I’m a bit puzzled by the suggestion to turn the saw upside-down for just a shim replacement. I just finished installing the shims I got from you: removed the SMT, miter slot, and router table (which would have been necessary to remove the rails anyway), pulled the left/right covers and blade shroud, and had full access to everything I needed. Never touched the rails or removed the saw from the stand. Am I missing something?

    1. When the saw is upside down the half-moon piece that the two screws go into is much easier to get them started. I remove the rails for ease of moving around the saw and turning it upside down. I am sure I have overthought it… Thanks for the feedback. –Tim

      1. I had the motor near the bottom of its travel during reassembly, which made the bearing retainer plate (which is what I think you’re referring to by “half-moon piece” accessible through the opening above the motor. Also see my other comment: it made it MUCH easier to deal with the two short screws.

    2. I found the same thing. My saw’s on a stand, and it would be a minor hassle to remove. I just took off the accessories, side panels and blade shroud and had no trouble doing the job.

      Luckily I didn’t have any trouble with screw (dis)assembly either, in part thanks to the tape trick in the video.

  4. After starting the two 10-24 screws next to the bearing, I found it useful to temporarily thread in a long (2″) 8-32 screw into one side of the bearing backer plate. It keeps it aligned during the rest of the assembly, and is replaced by the usual 3/4″ screw after the one on the other side is started.

    Also, I replaced all the PH screws with socket-head. If I ever have to do this again, it will save some time with the drill and the screw extractor.

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