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Helpful tips for replacing your shims on your BT3000

Here is a video I put together to help with replacing the shims.

The best advice I can give is to take the riving knife off, take the rails off altogether, turn over the assembly onto a towel or cardboard box, flip the saw over on it’s top onto some cardboard, remove the side panels, remove the back panel, dust cover, and then you should have enough access to the screws and guide holder. I would stay away from using power tools for the rest of the assembly. The screw heads seem to be softer than I would expect so be careful not to strip them.

For good measure pick up a couple spare: don’t ask me why I know!

8-32 X ¾” Pan head Machine screw.

10-24 x 1” Pan head Machine screw.

To avoid much frustration when it comes time to get the shims to stay put as you are assembling it I suggest using painter’s tape on the top tabs of each flat shim and both top and bottom for the angled shims. The material I have made the shims out of is, in my opinion, more resilient so you should not see the problem happen again where the shim will eventually drop out.

See the video for placing the shims frustration free. Tighten down the screws slowly, be patient. Once the bearing is seated all the way in the bracket you can then place the smaller screws into the black bearing holder plate with little frustration.

I highly suggest that you use some form of dust collection to keep the build up from wedging the shims. MDF is particularly a problem because of the quantity of fine dust that is generated.

Also, whenever I change the blade or take it out for cleaning I take the time to inspect the area to ensure that everything is working fine and that no build up is threatening the shims.

I think that the original shims are particularly damaged at the end of travel of the lift mechanism. Be careful when approaching these limits.

It would be great if you find something that helped you greatly I would love to hear about it.

If you got here directly and don’t know where to get the shims: I sell the shims on the right here on my website, both a full set and just the angled ones.

This procedure will also work for the Crafstman 315.228110

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Information regarding BT3000 Shims for reference

A good tear down video of a BT3100 which is very similar to the BT3000 except that it uses the thicker black shims.

I sell the shims on the right here on my website, both a full set and just the angled ones.

This picture shows the difference between new BT3100 shims on the left and old BT3000 shim on the right. They are not interchangeable. You can upgrade the saw to use the newer shims but you would have to find a replacement part for the guide holder (0181010110). I have heard there is mixed results with this approach.

Note: I have been asked if the flat shims are any different between the BT3000 and the BT3100. My conclusion is that they are the same based upon this reference page:
Flat shims for the BT3100 are listed as the same part number as the BT3000 and referenced as the shims for the BT3000.



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BT3000 Shim from stainless steel stock

I purchased a Baileigh brake/shear so that I could manufacture stainless steel shims for the BT3000. After taking the time to dial in the perfect settings I made some fixed gauges for the various depths of cut and bend needed for repeat-ability. I’ll update this with some pictures soon.

I am selling them here on my website (cost saving compared to EBay) and on EBay.I also sell a complete set here on my website and on Ebay.

Save your Ryobi BT3000 table saw! Replace the shims so the arbor raises and lowers with ease again. These shims are made from 302 stainless steel which are rust resistant and very durable. Order 2 if you would like to replace both shims.

Manufactured with a Shear/Brake to ensure precision.  There is no waviness or rough edges to the shims, and they seat nicely.



Here is a graphic which shows all of the locations I have shipped shims to:

Pin Map

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BT3000 Shims – made from 0.008 steel shim stock

This is an outdated version: see this post about stainless steel shims

Finally got around to figuring out how to bend my own steel shims for my table saw. I had read on some forum where many have had success using brass shim stock from their local hardware store. I thought that this was a brilliant idea but I thought that the brass stock would be too malleable and not allow for proper arbor alignment as the set screws would wear through fairly quickly.

I first created a jig where I could maximize material usage by allowing me to precisely cut stock to the final length of the shim, then to be able to cut the strips to the exact overall width of the shim so that it could be bent exactly to the dimensions needed. I think the pictures below are self explanatory.

I am currently selling them on e-bay (Sold out). New Listing(Sold out). Yet another.

Plain steel shimm E-Bay link.

E-bay Stainless steel shim listing.

Or from my own website stainless or steel at a discount.

Place the sheet into the jig and score along the outer line formed by the outer aluminum bar.Here is the score line madeGently bend along the score line. Bend a little bit back and forth THe small segment separates Turn the sheet 90 degrees and insert back into the jig and score along the outer edge of the inner aluminum bar gently fold along the seam the strip will break off keep doing this until you are unable to break off anymore. Here the strip to break off is too small so we need to do something different Place the thin strip in between two pieces of wood so as to be able to grip it well and bend off the short strip fold it gently here it has released using the same jig to bend off the small strip, insert the hinge with a spacer to get an accurate bend (your setup might vary from this) place the strip clamp it down bend the brass piano hinge segment over. You might want to lightly tap the hinge with a hammer to ensure the 90 is as good as you can get it Then place the bent shim into a jig so you can bend the ears over. Carefuly place it so you get an equal amount of material sticking up from each end cut a slit in the corner using a utility knife. Be careful to get into the corner as far as possible slowly roll the utility knife over until. use some solid piece of metal to help bend over the ear in a uniform manner Fold over the other ear and repeat for the other end Repeat for other side